No, never a good idea to attach wood, even pressure-treated, directly to concrete, especially not outdoors. Put a foam membrane between the two, at least, then protect the outside with appropriate flashing.
If the wood forms were treated properly with a form release agent, you can easily pull them away after the concrete dries. A do-it-yourselfer can pour concrete between 2-by-4 forms when installing ...
Pressure treated "PT" lumber is made for damp areas, where there's moisture and direct contact to concrete or earth. Make sure to use the proper coated anchors for Pressure treated lumber. such as hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel fasteners. there's more detail about this below.. keep in mind pressure treated is not only a preservative it is also a poison to prevent termites..
Concrete Patio Enclose with Pressure Treated Wood. Hello. I am looking for some advise. I have a large concrete patio my guess is 7-8'x24-26'. ... My question is can I keep the concrete patio and maybe treat it or try to resurface it with concrete so water will run off of it... I want to put a wood deck over it by my concern is moister and ...
if you bore the hole,fill with concrete and then stick the post in, the post won't last very long. If you put the post in the hole first then pour concrete around the post while keeping the post very steady, the post will last much longer.
Can I install pressure treated decking over existing concrete slab? ... running 4x4 posts along the perimeter of the slab and then putting down p.t. decking on that. You should have no problem putting stone over concrete.
Concrete resurfacing over wood or plywood substrates. Concrete resurfacing over wood or plywood substrates During renovation and remodeling of existing buildings, ... expanded metal lath for reinforcement is a successful fast-track method to convert a plywood subfloor into a beautiful concrete floor.
On the other hand, my civil engineer cousin advocates the use of a barrier between concrete and wood simply because the temperature differences between the wood and concrete can lead to condensation at the interface.
That being said, I know that some manufacturers of treated wood void their warranty if their products are set in concrete. Their recommendation is that a cement footing be poured in your hole and after it hardens the treated post is set on top.
Now I know you did the right thing and you bought treated wood for your post. That does help, and it will prolong the woods life, but no treating solution will stand up to a CONSTANT attack from air and moisture. ... we would recommend to customers to put a concrete block in the bottom of the hole to keep the post from settling or sinking. Then ...
In my opinion, it is better in the long run to use concrete footings and concrete piers. You can use pressure-treated but do not use typical pressure treated lumber, you should use something with a treatment rated for ground-contact/in-ground use.
The concrete people say the concrete forms a seal preventing the water from contact with the wood post. I go with the concrete people. However, there is an argument to be made that you don't need to bury your posts at all.
Pressure Treated Lumber on Concrete SubGrade Cellar Floor. ... by the use of naturally durable wood or wood that is preservative treated..." Michael Anthony | Apr 29, 2011 12:08pm | #3. ... I would put a capillary break under a pressure-treated 2x bottom plate. Buy "sill seal" at the lumber yard, and staple a full-length piece to the bottom of ...
There are various ways and methods of removing the solid wood stainfrom the pressure treated woods. The methods includes sanding andrefinishing it and striping the stain and r…eplacing it. Do ...
Use only treated wood suitable for ground contact (not decay resistant wood) for posts, columns, and poles encased in concrete that is in direct contact with the ground. 2. Use only treated wood suitable for ground contact (not decay resistant wood) for posts, columns, and poles encased in concrete and exposed to weather.
Treated wood can do quite well when it is moist (like in concrete). What really eats up the wood quickly is the alternate wetting and drying you get from the soil at ground level. If you ever look at the old posts on ocean piers, the wood is fine below water level and above, but rots near the water line where the tides cause wetting and drying.
Pressure treated wood is required whenever you attach framing lumber (as shown here) or furring strips to concrete or other exterior masonry walls below grade. Take note that this is only for exterior walls, as these may wick moisture onto the lumber.
Good building practices and building codes (IBC 2003) require pressure treated wood where it it touches concrete. An alternative would be to place a vapor barrier such as rubber between the concrete and the stringers.
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